Shoulders by Harpos | Restaurant Review

“A little bit of Greece. A whole lotta Lanka.”

The latest addition to the Harpos Group of Restaurants, “Shoulders” is a cocktail bar and Greek-inspired restaurant helmed by Shehan Setunge (or “Juppè” — his alter ego in the DJ scene). After spending the past nine years in Australia and working under Masterchef fan-favourite judge George Calombaris, Shehan is now back, eager to bring the flavours of Greece to the heart of his motherland.

Offering a unique set of dishes with locally sourced ingredients (with one exception) Shoulders by Harpos, I believe, is set to give the existing cocktail bar scene in Sri Lanka a proper run for their money!

SNACKS AND NIBBLES

Lamb Doughnuts with Coconut Sriracha (3 PCS) — LKR 1,750 (5/5)

A crowd favourite – and for good reason – this is a dish you dough-not want to miss out on. Stuffed with a delicious filling of pulled lamb, this doughnut together with the coconut sriracha was divine (and I don’t use that word lightly). The lamb itself was indescribably juicy and tender, and the sriracha, spicy and sweet with a tingly aftertaste that only left you wanting more. 

STARTERS

Taramasalata (Whipped Cod Roe Dip) — LKR 1,850 (5/5)

Remember when I said that Shoulders prides itself on using locally sourced ingredients with just one exception? Well, this is it. A Greek classic, the Taramasalata is an egg-less mayonnaise made using fish roe. With the tarama being brought down from Australia, I’ll be the first to admit, as much as I love my sushi, I was a little sceptical about having this, especially when I heard this was ‘fish-egg’ based. But I could not have been more wrong. 

Served with a side of pita bread, this stark white Taramasalata was – again – divine! It’s hard to describe the taste of it but I found myself going back for the umami-like flavours time and time again, throughout the meal. It really was a sensory experience of taste, smell, touch and sight. And when the pita bread ran out, I went straight for the spoon and dove right in. So, if not anything else, this is the one dish that I will keep coming back to, again and again.

Flaming Saganaki Cheese with Apricot Chutney — LKR 2,800 (4/5)

Flaming Greek Cheese, or Saganaki, is yet another classic Greek appetiser made with cheese flambéed in brandy. A treat for the eyes, if you’re someone whose phone eats first (Millie Bobby Brown who?) make sure to have your phones out, because this is definitely one to go on the ‘gram. 

Hot and straight out of the kitchen, flaming ‘n all, the cheese was soft, ooey, and everything you look for in cheese. But for me, the star of the show was the apricot chutney. Sweet and pungent in the best way, the chutney paired perfectly together with the cheese. 

MAINS

Spit Roasted Porketta with Miso Cauliflower Purée and Radish Slaw — LKR 4,750 (5/5)

Cooked in a one-of-a-kind rotisserie, the porketta is quite literally any meat-lover’s dream. Crispy, crackling skin was dried out just right, and the meat in the centre was as juicy and tender as it could get. The accompanying miso cauliflower purée and radish slaw also complemented the meaty flavours. The miso-infused cauliflower purée was creamy and velvety – as any perfect purée would be, but I was personally more invested in the combination of the meat with the radish slaw – fresh, crunchy and evoking a sense of umami, it really couldn’t get any better.

DESSERTS

Rice Pudding with Caramel Butterscotch and Coconut Biscuit Crumb — LKR 1,750 (5/5)

Now I’ve gotta admit, after what seemed like a never-ending meal complete with culinary masterpieces, there was barely any room for dessert, but really… this is a dessert to not miss out on. The base – a cold ‘kiri-bath’ like pudding – was the perfect neutral vessel to carry all the flavours of the caramel butterscotch and coconut biscuit crumb. The caramel butterscotch was a beautiful velvet caramel with a jaggery-esque taste that complemented the rice pudding perfectly. And the coconut biscuit crumb came through just right, giving a new depth of texture to this dessert. To put it simply, this was an elevated version of a kiri-bath and I loved every bite of it!

DRINKS

Shoulders by Harpos being the cocktail bar they are, offer a lineup of signature cocktails unlike anything else you’ve seen before. And Shehan, a massive anime fan, brought his love for it into his cocktails. And the cocktails themselves? Two words – a. slay.

Gaara of the Sand — LKR 1,800 (5/5)

Inspired by the anime cult-favourite, Gaara of the Desert from Naruto, this cocktail is an uncanny representation of the character. The vibrant red hues make for an enticing drink, and when it comes to taste, I genuinely have no complaints. The hibiscus vodka was truly the star, followed by a hint of elderflower syrup. As for booziness, well, this cocktail is as untouchable as the character it’s inspired by.

Shoulders Gin Sour — LKR 1,800 (5/5)

My personal favourite of the two cocktails we tried, the Shoulders Gin Sour was a winner for me. Sweet and sour just like passionfruit, I did love this but I’ll be honest and admit that after the ‘Gaara of the Sand’ I was a little too boozy to really determine the exact flavour profile of the drink. But hey – isn’t that exactly what you’re looking for in your cocktails anyway?

Oh and keep in mind both these cocktails do contain egg whites, so if you want to opt for a vegan option you can just request them to use the vegan foamer instead.

AMBIENCE

From the ambience to the staff and their service, Shoulders by Harpos was a winner. They offer outdoor seating, as well as indoors, but we highly recommend making a reservation before going in because they do get packed quite fast. And when I say packed, I mean PACKED. We were there on a Thursday, and they were fully booked out for the whole night – not bad being the new kid on the block, eh? Service is exceptionally fast and the staff, friendly. 

All in all, Shoulders by Harpos, offering some of the most authentic Greek cuisine and killer cocktails, was truly an experience of its own—a place you should visit and experience for yourself.

 

Note: Due to the current increase in VAT, prices may be subject to change.

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